Restaurant Review: AhSo
If I informed you i was ingesting potato skins and drinking a frozen cocktail in Ashburn, you may think i used to be slumming it, culinarily speakme.
rarely. In truth, I’m sitting in a handsome, window-wrapped dining room. And the chef who has carefully fried those skins until they became feathery, then topped them with sous-vide fowl, mozzarella, and buttermilk dressing, is none other than Jason Maddens, former chef at primary Michel Richard in DC and handling accomplice/chef at readability, the esteemed Vienna bistro.
Snacks like those potatoes—plates that Maddens and his group of workers gorge on after a shift and that also include a goat-sausage corn dog—are the various top reasons to pay AhSo a visit. So are the cocktails, which consist of a minty bourbon-and-peach refresher and a lightly spiced mai tai.
Maddens hasn’t abandoned his first-rate-dining roots, but you could tell he’s having extra a laugh at this place of his very own (it changed into all a dream, reads a neon signal by way of the open kitchen). An appetizer of tuna niçoise elevates the composed salad with a thinly sliced roulade of raw tuna, plus tomato confit and dabs of herbed aïoli and olive tapenade. A bed of grits indicates off superbly seared scallops ringed with chorizo and pickled fennel stalks. much less a success: underseasoned fried oysters, a play on Rockefeller.
a number of the entrées, a duo of hen suggests off Maddens’s split character. On one aspect of the plate is a wonderfully roasted bone-in fowl breast, on the other a crunchy fried leg. A grilled bavette steak—as flavorful as flank—is nearly upstaged with the aid of a bowl of yuca that’s tossed, Mexican-road-corn-style, with aïoli and cotija cheese. even though a vegetarian play on spaghetti and meatballs is one of the few constants on the ever-changing menu (Maddens uses spaghetti squash and lentil-quinoa orbs in it), the riff lacked tons verve. And cakes, such as a stale-tasting gluten-unfastened brownie sundae, have tasted a chunk phoned in.
still, these kinds of restaurants—and this quality of chef—have till now been in brief supply in Ashburn. Maddens desired to open a eating place closer to his domestic, and he instantly fell for the Brambleton development and its town middle. “all of us who lives here has drunk the Kool-aid,” he says of the community. “all of them like it.”
searching around the eating room on my ultimate go to, I noticed kids perched with iPads, pals lingering over wine, and oldsters pop-ping in for a bowl of the famous ramen the kitchen serves on Wednesday nights—plus a variety of complete seats. looks as if Maddens has created precisely what the neighborhood needs.
22855 Brambleton Plaza, Ashburn; 703-327-6600
Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.
this text seemed within the June 2018 trouble of Washingtonian.
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