Gravitas Is the First Tasting Menu Restaurant in Ivy City
First got here the distilleries, then the informal eateries, the health studios, and the mom’s natural market. Now, once-business Ivy metropolis has an upscale eating place wherein dinner starts at $78.
Gravitas, beginning today, is a tasting menu-handiest restaurant led through 31-yr-old chef Matt Baker, who’s formerly worked at town Perch, Occidental Grill, Minibar, and Brasserie Beck. The eclectic menu brings collectively flavors from the mid-Atlantic, Baker’s Houston upbringing, and his time operating in Singapore and touring in the course of Asia.
Diners build their own four- to seven-direction meal from a listing of around 20 dishes. 1/2 of the alternatives are vegetarian. Baker first of all deliberate to have a separate menu specially for vegetarians, but reimagined the layout to enchantment to the various “vegetarians with exceptions” he encountered. “a variety of humans would say, ‘Oh I’m a vegetarian, but I eat scallops.’ You’re not honestly a vegetarian, however something. It permits us to truly technique that with out judging, and you may do something you need.”
a number of the meat-unfastened attractions is an entire beet that’s dehydrated for twenty-four hours, cooked sous-vide in its personal juices, then braised for 36 hours. The smooth pink orb is served on a cauliflower puree with a beet demi-glace and beet chips. For an extra dose of beets, strive the “King of Beets” cocktail with unaged brandy and tarragon syrup.
The seasonally converting menu is divided into 4 sections: “light beginning,” “indulgence,” “hearty,” and “candy.” in the first class is a yellowfin tuna tartare sprinkled with a housemade furikake seasoning (nori, dehydrated rice, garlic, and shallots), paired with black vinegar aioli, and drizzled tableside with a soy French dressing.
some other dish with a few Asian flare: Anson turbines Charleston gold brown rice. The grains are cooked in a kombu and soy sauce broth then topped with a soy-marinated poached egg yolk and shiso. “It’s like an umami bomb,” Baker says.
For dessert, Baker riffed off blueberry cheesecake. His is an aerated version tinted with saffron and observed by numerous “textures of blueberries.” Strawberry shortcake isn’t quite so deconstructed but nonetheless far from traditional. White chocolate and buttermilk cake is paired with roasted strawberries and pickled rhubarb plus a rhubarb-yuzu sorbet.
four publications move for $seventy eight, and the fee escalates to $110 for seven. (Dishes with foie gras and caviar come with a supplemental rate.) Wine pairings range from an extra $40 to $70. “I wanted to fee it in opposition to locations like Métier, Kinship, Masseria, and that i surely think that we’re a cost,” Baker says.
within the coming weeks, Gravitas will even launch a -seat chef’s counter for around $one hundred fifty a head. For that, Baker will serve a 15-course menu with dishes that aren’t available within the rest of the dining room. “it'll be a very summary tasting menu that’s greater approximately experimentation and things that we’re gambling round with,” he says.
The wine listing consists of a hundred on the whole American and French labels. Head bartender Mary Kelly, formerly of Graffiato and Kapnos, is in the back of the cocktails, which embody garden components. some spirits come from the pals: The “Ivy city martini,” for example, uses One 8 Distilling’s gin and a pickled ramp brine.
A rooftop bar with a pitcher-enclosed greenhouse and 20 to 30 seats will open inside the subsequent six to 8 weeks. The 1,500-square-foot lawn will deliver produce used inside the eating place.
The 70-seat eating place is housed in a former tomato packing manufacturing unit, which become nothing beyond a shell and some soil whilst Baker took it over. His imaginative and prescient for the aesthetic: “What if there has been a worn-down warehouse that become overrun by means of greenery and weeds and wiped clean it up a touch bit and became it right into a eating place?” Of path, the reality wasn’t pretty so easy. Baker initially hoped to open the eating place in 2016 however changed into waylaid by using a collapsed wall and different idiosyncrasies of a ancient constructing.
The home windows, brick walls, and metal beams from the unique area stay intact, but the high-ceilinged area has a whole lot of enhancements, which includes a mezzanine with a private dining room and an open kitchen.
not handiest can diners peer into kitchen, so can every body taking walks down the sidewalk. big home windows make certain all passersby can see, sure, that clearly is a nice dining eating place within the community.
“It’s Ivy city. It’s nevertheless transitioning. I wanted them to look chef whites—a serious eating place in a neighborhood that’s still coming alongside,” Baker says. “That’s really what the purpose became: to try to convey people in, bring attention, be absolutely obvious.”
Gravitas. 1401 Okie St., NE; 202-763-7942. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from five to eleven PM.
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